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Marque Restaurant
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Restaurant
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Sydney
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Credit Cards:
All major cards
Open:
Dinner Tues - Sat
Price:
Moderate
Score (/20):
16.5
Reviewed By
Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
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Phone Number:
+61 2 9332 2225
Address:
355 Crown Street
Surry Hills, New South Wales, 2010
Country:
Australia
Food Style:
French
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You will find Marque underneath the Medina Apartments in a space that has been cleverly transformed through the liberal use of splashes of white marble and streaks of timber, combined with some left-of-centre light shades providing muted illumination. A high window behind the bar allows you glimpses of disembodied heads dashing purposefully around the kitchen.The food here is quite different to the last time we visited. We wanted the food to be good because we have always admired the skill of the chef. We also like the fact that he hasn't gone down the path of many of his contemporaries and opened a chain of restaurants that divert attention from the main game.However, this year we walked away from our meal mildly dissatisfied. We felt that the direction taken was too far towards the avant garde without retaining the link to flavour and respect for produce.Let us explain. When we visited Mugaritz in San Sebastian we were prepared for an El Bulli experience where you need to suspend belief and move into a different frame of reference. However there we discovered how a chef could push the boundaries of modernism and still remain true to the essential flavours of great produce. In fact, we saw how simple flavours could be twisted but enhanced. The respect for produce is also a hallmark of Mugaritz alumni Dan Hunter who is now coaxing flavour out of artichokes, broad beans, peas and radishes plucked from the restaurant garden at his Dunkeld restaurant in western Victoria.So, back to Marque and our experiences there. First, let's put it in perspective. Based on our recent meal it is still a great restaurant and should still be considered among the finest in Australia, however you need to be prepared for the type of food that you will experience.The following dishes were served to us during the evening and this will give you an idea of the type of food served:Chaud-froid free range egg - in the Arpege style topped with chopped herbs and a thin crouton on the side.Almond jelly, blue swimmer crab, almond gazpacho, corn custard and herring roe - a very white presentation except for the herring roe.Cured ocean trout, trout roe and citrus - delicate, pretty presentation and delicious - strewn with flower petals.Risotto of south west calamari, Yamba prawns and broth - more white food in a white plate, green leaves for contrast, foam makes its presence.Serrano jamon with white asparagus and Parmesan custard - one slice of good ham with white asparagus and delicate custard plus dusted plate.Roast Jurassic quail with pumpkin tofu, pickled onion and pork crackling - nice flavours with crunchy 'snow' of pork crackling on the tofu.Venison loin with potato puree, crispy Brussel sprouts and mushroom salad - beautifully pink venison.Brunet (goats milk cheese from Piedmont) with brioche, brown bread ice cream, celery and vanilla - lovely ice cream.We finished with Sauternes custard with vanilla and a dish of chocolate vermicelli with glace cumquats and yoghurt.Of the wines served we particularly enjoyed the Crawford River Riesling, an Olssen Primitivo and the Disznoko Late Harvest Furmint.This is a professional outfit with good food, good wine and excellent service. Some of the forays into modern experimentation work well and some are not as successful.
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