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Sean's Panorama
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Restaurant
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Sydney
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Credit Cards:
All major cards
Open:
Lunch Sat - Sun, dinner Wed - Sat
Price:
Moderate
Score (/20):
16.5
Reviewed By
Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
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Phone Number:
+61 2 9365 4924
Address:
270 Campbell Parade Bondi Beach, New South Wales
Country:
Australia
Food Style:
Modern Australian
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Sean's Panorama certainly isn't the slickest dining space in Sydney. Rather, the owners have gone for a 'lived-in' look where people feel comfortable - the sort of place where locals might impulsively drop in for a snack and a chat rather than the sort of place where you plan a big night out. Don't let the look fool you, however, as some of Sydney's best food is turned out of the open kitchen here.The menu is a relief. Only a few entrees and main courses are listed on the boards above the kitchen. However, despite the small choice available you will want every dish!We opted to start with 'Honey and cream' corn chowder with Boston Bay vongole. This was a flat bowl of very thick, intensely-spiced (Indian-style) chowder topped with a pile of succulent clams. The other dish was the signature offering of linguine with shredded arugula, lemon, chilli and parmesan which was an entrée of particular brilliance. The simplicity of the presentation belied the flavour packed into this tiny dish.Main courses saw us choosing stunning pieces of tarragon-roasted Barossa chook served with a delicious sweet potato puree and cavolo nero. Our other dish was White Rocks milk fed veal scaloppine pan-fried with sage and pancetta and served with mashed potato. Both dishes increased our respect for the skills of the chef as dish a friend's choice of a whole John Dory cooked on the bone which showed why this fish should never be separated from its skeleton before cooking.But if we thought the meal had been enjoyable so far, we were not to know that the best was yet to come. Stunning desserts - the first was a poached nectarine sitting beside a perfectly-formed tuille served with a jug of thick pistachio anglaise. The anglaise was a triumph and was much sought after by all at the table.Other desserts sampled included chocolate mint crisp and chocolate ice cream with stewed blood plums, a perfect black fig tartlet with ricotta and grappa and a complex blackberry trifle with peach leaf custard and tiny slices of 'Swiss Roll' topped with perfect blackberries.Overall this was one of the most pleasant and relaxed meals we have had in Sydney. It was a meal that, to us, defines what Sydney dining should be about. Not pretentious, not too formal, not surrounded by this week's designer fit-out - just great food served by caring staff in a pleasant atmosphere.
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